Dear Jake & Amelia,
We drove into Mesa Verde on the long winding entry road. We drove past grassy meadows,  green treed valleys and landscape charred by last July's forest fire. The road climbed up to the North Rim of the mesa, running just below and sometimes along the narrow ridge. We caught expansive views across valleys used for grazing and farming, and contrasting views of majestic mountain ranges. The city of Cortez sat on the flatlands far below.

We drove out to Wetherill Mesa where last August a second fire completely burned all grasses, plants, shrubs and brush. Larger trees were left as charred black twisting forms rising from the exposed red soil.

We bought tickets for ranger tours so that we could walk through Long House, Cliff Palace and Balcony House. We walked down narrow paths that switched back and forth as we descended the cliff face. As we entered each ruin, we saw a stunning collection of forms, the remains of  a majestic stone village. Built 700 years ago, the ancient pueblos rest on the floors of caves hundreds of feet above the canyon floor.

The plaza at Long House is full of round kivas sitting in front of  multi storied dwellings that fill the back of the cave. At Cliff Palace, the forms cascade along the cave floor like notes of music. At Balcony House, we descended from the mesa edge until we were beneath the ruin. Then we climbed up a long wooden ladder. The rungs were hot from the morning sun. The ladder led to a small intimate plaza. To enter a second plaza, we climbed a shorter ladder, crossed sloping  rock face on hand and toe holes, then slipped between a stone building and the back of the cave. To leave the dwelling, we climbed through the ancient entry, a small tunnel hidden within a crevice in the rock, then up another ladder and over the cliff face, holding onto a chain rail. The experience gave us a slight sense of the old access to these places.

We visited Spruce Tree House and Step House on self guided tours. We drove roads with overviews to additional cliff dwellings. Many of the villages are within sight of each other. The ruins are striking. The differences are ones of size, location, access and form. They are all pleasing.

Nancy & Peter

Home    Across America    Southwest    Previous Postcard    Next Postcard    Nancy Fulton Art

All Rights Reserved   © 2001  Nancy Fulton & Peter Miner